This is another commonly asked question that I answer frequently, so I thought an updated blog post would be appropriate.
Typical Dry Cell hho generators available today are essentially stainless steel plates with small holes in the top and bottom for water to flow through, separated by neoprene gaskets, and compressed together by end plates and through bolts. The end plates have threaded fittings for water to flow in and gas to flow out.
While dry cell hho kits have become popular because anyone with a kitchen table can put them together and sell them for a profit, there are many design features that we felt needed major improvement to progress from a science experiment in the garage, to a professionally manufactured kit anyone would be proud to show off.
Our current 800 series is our fourth generation of HHO kits. We invested $300,000 in dies, molds, equipment, and inventory; and 2 years of development time to come up with this advanced
hho kit design. No one has even come close to being that serious, and most just sell a typical, non innovative dry cell hho generator, like everyone else.
We started from scratch. We threw out the book and redesigned from the ground up. We knew from our customers that leaks were a major issue. Leaks between the gaskets, leaks from the hose fittings are the most common failure, and arise from the "thermal cycling" that occurs when hho generators are turned on and off. A typical hho cell will operate at 130 degrees F, then cool down to ambient temps. That cycling can cause the steel plates, and the neoprene rubber gaskets to expand and contract at different rates, resulting in failure and leaks over time. The hose fittings screwed into the end plates are notorious for this as well, for the same reason.
We decided to eliminate those weak points. First we engineered a unique hho cell casing with hose fittings molded in (not an easy task!). This eliminated the fittings leakage and made our kits half the thickness of all other kits (making it much easier to install in tight locations). Then we engineered special injection molded cell casings and electrode casings with matching grooves for our triple redundant O-ring gaskets. That way, all sealing surfaces are of the same high temp plastic - no differences in thermal expansion, and no leaks. No one has this feature, and it was extremely difficult to overcome the many challenges to make it work - literally hundreds and hundreds of tests and application procedures.
Additionally, instead of drilling holes into the plates inside (which can cause a current leak from the edges), we encapsulate the internal plates in a special retaining ring that seals 100% of the edges, and gives the best efficiency possible. No dry cell can boast that.
What we have engineered is a unique and ultra compact hho generator kit that utilizes design features no one else has, and gives you the most on the market today.
Nothing is advertised more, and lied about more often, than the LPM a kit can produce. I was just asked this the other day, so I thought an article was in order...
LPM refers to the Liters Per Minute an HHO generator can produce. It is currently measured by varying methods such as empty water bottles or gas flow meters. The problem arises from a total lack of standards in the industry and so it is fraught with unethical claims to help sell kits.
If you look at some of our competitors, they make it a point to post a high LPM rating for their kits, but if you read it carefully, they say "UP TO 3 LPM" or similar claims. Well talk about a loose definition! Up to? That means they could produce 1/2 LPM and still not technically be lying about it. SO look carefully- Buyer beware.
Another area for fraud, is an outright claim for a given LPM that seems high compared to what the efficiency ratings for comparable kits would produce. However, if you dig deeper, you will see that there is absolutely no proof or verification. No videos, no independent testing, no evidence but a wild claim to help sell kits. Again, buyer beware.
Lastly, there are the bait and switch LPM claims. These are the kinds that actually Do have a video or series of videos proving the amazing flow rates of their kits that defy logic. Why do I call them Bait and Switch? Because the videos are usually very well edited to not show the amp gauge, the voltmeter, and the generator system (all hoses), and the flow meter or bottle, all at the SAME time. Why is this important? You may not realize that a generator can be over clocked like a computer processor for a short time without damaging it. You can warm up a system, then pump 50 or 60 amps through it for a few minutes of video, and it seems to be the most amazing thing ever. But its a lie...
You can also have an amp meter showing say, 30 amps, and put 24 or even 48 volts into it for a short time, and make it seem like a heavy producer. How you ask? Easy... a typical hho generator on your car, will operate on 12-13 volts and 17 to 30 amps on average. That is about 220 - 360 watts of power (V x A = W). Now lets say you pump 24 volts in at 30 amps, and suddenly you are pumping 720 watts, which would double production (but overheat the unit in a short time). If you wanted to pump 48 volts in, you would be putting in 1440 watts of power at same amps. So technically, your "demo kit" would show 4 times the output of any other kit...
I wish everyone was honest, but we have been doing this longer than almost everyone. We were one of the first professional manufacturers and we have seen companies come and go. We've seen it all. SO that is why we don't even use the LPM measurement as a basis for our kits. If everyone played fairly, we would, but no one does, so we wont use that as a measurement.
We have established a record of what works and what doesn't. That's why we sell kits based on engine sizes, and the record of our customers results over the years, not a fictitious LPM rating. I urge you before you buy from such a site, ask them for video verification with all elements showing as I indicated. I bet you wont find ONE that will.
It took us some time but we finally have gotten around to making a full set of new instructional videos that give a concise and detailed record of how to install the generator, the reservoir, the filter, wiring, hoses, amp gauges, PWM, EFIE, everything!
Compared to what is out there, this is the most comprehensive series to date!
Check us out, and subscribe to the channel, and leave some comments if you like what we are doing!
You can find them here: How To Install an HHO Kit
Until later,
Bob
One of our blog post readers asked this question about their hho kit recently so I thought I would address this issue.
Can I Mount My HHO Kit farther away?
Occasionally, no matter how one tries, they cant seem to find a place to mount their generator. This is far more rare now with our 800 series because they are half the thickness of our old units (and pretty much any unit available today with similar amounts of plates!) That is one reason we engineered them with the hose fittings at the top and bottom of the cell casings - shaved a LOT of room off the thickness and creates a better flow of water and hydrogen gas up through the plates inside, without needing any holes in the plates like a dry cell.You can see how skinny this profile is of the 881. It is literally the thickness of a mans hand on edge (1.5").
But even with all the improvements, some have trouble installing up front, so they want to know- can I put the hho kit in the back or in the trunk? Yes, but....
First- NEVER put it in the cab, or behind the drivers seat. It may look cool when it is making hydrogen and oxygen, but if there were an accident, you do NOT want electrolyte flying out all over you. Be safe. Keep it up front or in the trunk.
Be aware, that mounting a kit in the trunk, no matter how good the hho generator is, can casue it to not perform as well as being up close to the engine? Why? Because some of the gas has 10 or 12 feet to condense and recombine into water vapor before it gets drawn in the engine, and as the gas gets warm from use (common to operate at about 135 F)if there is cool air outside running along that tube, it Will condense even more, filling the low spots of the hose with water, which could eventually get sucked into your engine and cause it to stall.
So if you mount there- check and monitor the hose connecting the kit to the air intake, and drain any excess water periodically.
Ultimately - you are far better mounting in the front fender well area if you can. Check out our instructional videos on YouTube to see how we do it here! We are uploading a fully detailed series on How to install an hho kit in your car- maybe that will help!
Until later- Be Safe! Have Fun.
One of our readers, John, suggested I write more on the Pro Series tuners and where to start when using them. That was the plan already- thanks John! In fact, we will be putting new series of videos together covering the installation of our hho kits, the setup, tweaking, and troubleshooting as well as installation of the efies! I will send out emails to our private list and subscribers as those are uploaded- so make sure and subscribe!
The Pro Series Tuners
Along with our advanced EFIE/MAF tuners which essentially cover the MAF or MAP sensors and anywhere from 1-4 O2 sensors (see more about those on previous articles linked below), we also offer a more advanced tuner called the Pro Series (gasoline only). If you havent read the previous articles- please catch up with part 1 and 2 on links below:
PART 1: http://www.hhokitsdirect.com/blogs/news/36121921-what-is-an-efie-and-do-i-need-one-with-my-hho-kit
PART 2: http://www.hhokitsdirect.com/blogs/news/37332289-what-is-an-efie-and-do-i-need-one-with-my-hho-kit-part-2
The Pro Series is more advanced and is designed for the newer vehicles with more sensors and more computer controls. The old OBD1 systems (pre-1996 cars) was very simple and had 1 maybe 2, O2 sensors, and/ or a MAF. As cars progressed, the fuel maps and computer controls did too. By 2005-2006, mfgs started using additional sensors, and by 2010 -2012, it seems most started using the additional sensors.
I am referring to the addition of both the IAT (Intake Air Temp) and the CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor). The first one is usually tied in in the same wiring harness as the MAF and measures the air temp coming into engine.The second one measures the temperature of the coolant. Both in more modern engines are used to determine fuel maps, and ultimately how much fuel to deliver to the engine.
HOW DOES THE PRO SERIES HELP?
If the engine computer determines the air (using the IAT) is say 120 degrees F, it is programmed to LEAN out the fuel. If it is 35 degrees F, it is going to richen up, or add more fuel. When we adjust the pot on the Pro Series, we are telling the ECM that the outside air is Hotter than it actually is- so the ecm chooses the leaner fuel map. Now, mind you, the engine is not harmed in anyway. The computer just thinks it is hotter outside, then it really it is, so its time to cut back the fuel. We NEVER do this without adding in an alternative fuel, such as our HHO kit, or you run the risk of burning valves, but WITH the addition of HHO gas, the engine cuts back fuel, you add it back in with HHO, and the result is less gasoline burned, while maintaining power and gaining mileage (since you are extracting the fuel from water to compensate).
Same goes with the CTS. If the ECM thinks the engine coolant is say, 5-7 degrees hotter than it should be, it signals a leaner fuel map to lean out the gas and cool the engine back down. Remember, we are NOT actually making the engine hotter, we are making the computer "think" the engine is hotter to lean out fuel.
It really is the same thing with the O2 sensors and MAF. We lower the millivot signal of the O2 sensor so the engine thinks it is running too rich, and the computer chooses a leaner map.
Remember, never use these type of product without injecting hho or you could damage your engine. But when used with a quality HHO kit like we manufacture (shameless plug), they can give you more power, more mileage and lower your emissions for a long time.
From time to time, we get customers and people interested in purchasing one of our hydrogen kits, wanting to know how much electrolyte is consumed or used in their kits.
There is no solid answer to this, as it varies by how much driving you do and how hard you run your hho kit, but there are some general usages I can tell you about.
First, let me clarify that you do NOT need to add more electrolyte/activator every time you add water. Remember that we are not creating hydrogen and oxygen out of thin air! We are breaking the water into its base molecules of hydrogen and oxygen (though it is a very small consumption rate of approximately 1800:1), so you will have to add some water to the reservoir on a regular basis: how much depends on various factors.
An average hho generator running at 18 -20 amps will consume less water than one running at 25-28 amps. Our new series 880 generators use far less water than our older 77 series. When we were running and testing the prototypes, we found at 18 amps, we used only about 2 cups (Half a liter) of water for a whole month! At 25-30 amps we doubled the consumption which is still far less than others on the market today.
You will be able to get a good read on consumption after setting up and breaking in your hho kit after the first couple of weeks. We recommend checking it every time you fill up your gas, until you see what rate you are using.
You ONLY have to top off with fresh distilled water, NOT water+ electrolyte! The electrolyte is a catalyst, not a consumable, so you will see your amp gauge slowly climbing as water is consumed. When you add more water- it will return to normal levels. Now, although technically the electrolyte is not a consumable. there is a very small trace amount that mixes with the hho gas (you can smell it in the unfiltered gas), so slowly, over time, you will see the amps start to drop as you keep refilling the reservoir. This is also why you MUST properly filter the gas before it enters the engine, or you WILL get white salts forming on your throttle plate and aluminum parts. Bubbler water must be changed frequently as well. Our new dry filters removes this very effectively.
When you see the Amps drop below your desired running amount, then it is time to add a spoonful mixed in with your next top off of water. Usually one spoon is all you need to bring it right back up.
Rule of Thumb:
Hope that helps!
Bob
P.S. You can buy more electrolyte from our store, as well as the perfect Hydro Gen Cleaner. And if you do Not have a drain kit, get one to make life easier for you! Get any of those by clicking on these links if you need:
Electrolyte Activator: http://www.hhokitsdirect.com/collections/all/products/hho-generator-hydro-activator-electrolyte-16-ounces-454-grams
Hydro Gen Cleaner Power Pack: http://www.hhokitsdirect.com/collections/all/products/power-pack-cleaner-activator-for-hho-generators
Drain Kit: http://www.hhokitsdirect.com/collections/all/products/quick-connect-drain-kit-for-hho-kits
In Part 1, we talked about the basics of fuel injection, how they work and why you need an EFIE or Diesel chip with an HHO kit on a modern car.
We talked about how injectors are controlled by the cars computer (ECM) to determine how long they stay open or closed, and how fast they open or close. The ECM decides those parameters using a programmed set of "fuel maps", that utilize the information from the cars sensors to determine if the engine needs more gas or less gas.
Computers can only do what they are programmed for. They can't tell if you are going up a hill or towing a trailer, or anything else, without reading the information from the sensors first. The two key sensors are the O2 sensors in the exhaust to monitor oxygen levels, and the MAF or MAP sensors that monitor the flow of incoming air and the manifold vacuum.
The sensors transmit the data to the cars ECM using very tiny millivolt signals. An O2 sensor may be in the 400 millivolt range for example. When you install one of our EFIE's, you use a volt meter to adjust that millivolt rating down to say 300 millivolts. By doing this, you are telling the car computer to "Lean Out" the fuel, which allows the HHO generator to supply the additional energy, and still save fuel (If you do this without adding an alternative fuel, you will notice a lack of power, and could even burn your valves, so ONLY do this when injecting a new fuel like HHO gas). AN efie gas tuner allows you to slowly tweak and test to get the optimum performance from your hho generator.
The MAF sensor works on the same premise, but measures the mass air flow going into the engine to determine the work the engine is doing (engine load). When you use our EFIE or Diesel Chip, you adjust them to reduce the engine load setting. In other words, you are telling the car computer that it has a 20% lighter engine load than it actually is (for example). The computer then reduces fuel because of that.
It is not as complicated as it may seem at first. You simply locate the one signal wire on a sensor and connect it to our EFIE or Diesel Chip, then adjust it with a screwdriver. After that, you never mess with it again. (we show you how to locate the wire, install it and adjust it in our free manual).
By changing the signals ever so slightly, you are teaching the car computer how to reduce the gas or diesel usage, when supplemented by pure hydrogen and oxygen gas. That is the Long term way to make your hho kit function as both an emission reducer and fuel saver, without loss of power or performance.
Stay tuned for Part 3 where we get into the Pro series level chips and how they differ from our advanced series.
If you have any questions- feel free to email us!
Until next time,
Bob
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Note and Disclaimer: Hydrogen or Hydroxy gas and hydrogen cells are experimental technologies, results vary depending on application success is not guaranteed.
